Cars tend to be on the road much longer now than they used to be. By "longer" I mean they are seeing a lot more miles. Todays vehicles are getting to 200,000 or more miles before needing extensive repairs. Technology has come quite a long way, so how do you keep your car running for that long? And if you purchase a car with high mileage, what are the risk and things you should know about it?
To keep you car running in tip top shape, it is important to ensure a few things.
1) It must be properly lubricated internally. That means get your fluids changed when you should. Oil is every 3000-5000 miles depending on driving habits. Highway miles can usually push closer to 5000, but city stop-and-go driving should be changed sooner. Always change the filter at every oil change too. Transmission fluid must be changed at the appropriate intervals along with the filter. Refer to the owners manual for this. A commonly overlooked area is the rear end of rear wheel drive vehicles. This oil must also be changed as often as the transmission fluid. If not, metal will start to wear down and you will notice a jolt or a thud when putting the car in gear. Also have the brake lines flushed. Thats right, the brake lines. Until recently, it was thought that brake fluid wouldn't need replacing, but studies show that bad brake fluid can result in master cylinder failure. Also take note of the radiator fluid. If this is overlooked, you can get rust deposits and clogged water passages in the engine. Clogged water passages equals higher engine temps, which are an enemy of durability.
2) The engine must have the right fuel and air mixture. This is important for several reasons. The fuel mixture determines the combustion in the cylinders. This is directly related to horsepower, fuel economy, and engine life. A lean mixture (not enough gas) can cause detonation, which is very bad for the internals of the engine. Prolonged periods of detonation from a lean fuel mixture can take thousands of miles off of the life of the motor, and hamper performance and fuel economy. Running too rich (too much gas) can have a different but equally adverse effect, resulting in carbon build up and premature valve failure. Late model care are equipped with computers to control the fuel and air mixture. If a component in the system fails, the check engine light will come on. This is usually a sign of a component going bad that read or adjust the fuel air mixture. Riding with this light on, even though you may not notice it, can be detrimental to your engine. Always have the codes read and fix the problem to ensure the durability of the engine.
3) Revs are an enemy of every engine. The higher the rpms, the greater the risk of engine failure. Driving habits have everything to do with how many rpms your engine will see. At higher rpms, there is a greater chance for bearing wear and damage, piston ring and cylinder wall scoring, among many other unwanted possibilities. Engines have a red line, which is the highest rpm the engine can safely withstand without immediate damage. Stay close to the edge too long, and you may find yourself with burnt rings, bent or burnt valves, spun engine bearings, or collapsed lifters.
The OEM and aftermarkets have a lot of options out there to help you keep your car maintained and running smoothly. You can find whatever you need to replace your sensors and get the scheduled maintenance done on time, but if you heed these warnings, then you should see every bit of 200,000 miles and beyond.
Friday, September 14, 2007
Thursday, September 13, 2007
Compare Auto Care
Most of us know the agony of having your car break down in the middle of nowhere or on the way to work. You have gone through it and so have I, and let me tell you it was one painful and long day. However, an auto repair shop was nearby and that sort of came to the rescue. I say 'sort of' because for basic auto repair they charged me a bundle. Not many will tell you this but as important as knowing a family doctor is, I feel it is equally important to know professional auto repair services.
Now, I am not suggesting you start building new relationships immediately, but you definitely need to know the basics on the mechanism, and working of your automobile. Listed below are necessary pointers, to give you an idea of the basics of car care and maintenance, that will boost and improve your auto repair IQ while also helping you make better choices about your car.
* Synthetic Oil is just a poorer alternative and not always better. If your car has been functioning smoothly with regular oil, and your car's manual doesn’t suggest a change, stick to regular oil for all your oil change requirements. The main reason why auto shops ask you to change is to only make quick money.
* Get a new timing belt on recommended intervals. A timing belt does not have warnings or symptoms but when it breaks, and depending on the kind of engine your car runs on, it can cause substantial internal wreckage. This results in your car's pistons crashing into valves.
* While changing your timing belt, switch your serpentine belt or drive belts too as it can save all your future labor charges. Serpentine or drive belts should be taken out in order to complete the timing belt's replacement.
* Want long lasting and long performing windshield wipers? Use alcohol and a soft rag while cleaning your windshield wipers to improve its performance and also to extend its life.
* Know how to check all the fluid levels in your car – Engine coolant, engine oil, power steering fluid, transmission fluid, washer solvent and brake fluid, all show fluid levels. An indicator of forthcoming problems is dropping fluid levels.
* Regularly check your brake pad's life. Switch the pads before they are exhausted and begin to grind into your vehicle's brake rotors which will further increase price of brake repair.
* Always clean your car's battery posts.
* Know that every different automobile has a different duration for the change of the car’s spark plugs. Read your vehicle’s manual to know about your car’s interval time. To make extra money, deceitful auto mechanics may suggest switching spark plugs after every 30,000 miles even if your car's spark plugs' life expectancy may be 100,000 miles.
* Check the pressure of your tires frequently. If your tyres are inflated to the right pressure, it saves fuel and also lengthens the tire longevity. On the other hand, lessening tyre air pressure means a leak that needs immediate repair.
* Regularly check your air filters. Filthy air filters reduce fuel economy and functioning. A high-pressure hose can be used to blow-out dirty air filters instead of getting new ones.
* Keep an eye on your engine oil. Check your engine oil regularly. Older automobiles may start to burn oil. Sometimes, cars can run dangerously low on engine oil and not show any warning of a leak.
To be realistic, many of us will never make efforts to learn how to work on our own cars. Most of the cars that came out within the last decade are run by a variety of electronic sensors and computers. The positive bit about this is that the auto industry is always making changes to improve fuel economy, lessen pollution, and provide optimum performance all by itself. On the other hand, vehicles need regular specialized training, and exorbitant testing equipments in order to flawlessly determine problems and repair cars.
Without this necessary training and contribution in specialized car tools, the DIY car owner, (and even smaller auto repair shops) has no other option but to “throw parts at cars” until the warning signs disappear. In some situations, auto shops replace a certain part, and later also suggest after the installation that another part too requires changing. If it was never mentioned in the beginning, this is an alarm bell that the mechanic isn’t accomplished enough to recognize the problem effectively. With a bad mechanic, you might have just replaced parts that were working perfectly well.
This is the main reason we state that the most crucial choice you make in getting your car fixed is which auto repair shop you take your car to. As many honest and skilled mechanics there are, also present are deceptive and dishonest mechanics too. We suggest you ask your friends and neighbors to recommend you a mechanic, else use a 3rd party service like AAA, the Better Business Bureau, or CompareAutoCare.com to provide you with information on shops in your local area, so that you have an idea of what you’re stepping into before you actually bring in your vehicle for service.
Now, I am not suggesting you start building new relationships immediately, but you definitely need to know the basics on the mechanism, and working of your automobile. Listed below are necessary pointers, to give you an idea of the basics of car care and maintenance, that will boost and improve your auto repair IQ while also helping you make better choices about your car.
* Synthetic Oil is just a poorer alternative and not always better. If your car has been functioning smoothly with regular oil, and your car's manual doesn’t suggest a change, stick to regular oil for all your oil change requirements. The main reason why auto shops ask you to change is to only make quick money.
* Get a new timing belt on recommended intervals. A timing belt does not have warnings or symptoms but when it breaks, and depending on the kind of engine your car runs on, it can cause substantial internal wreckage. This results in your car's pistons crashing into valves.
* While changing your timing belt, switch your serpentine belt or drive belts too as it can save all your future labor charges. Serpentine or drive belts should be taken out in order to complete the timing belt's replacement.
* Want long lasting and long performing windshield wipers? Use alcohol and a soft rag while cleaning your windshield wipers to improve its performance and also to extend its life.
* Know how to check all the fluid levels in your car – Engine coolant, engine oil, power steering fluid, transmission fluid, washer solvent and brake fluid, all show fluid levels. An indicator of forthcoming problems is dropping fluid levels.
* Regularly check your brake pad's life. Switch the pads before they are exhausted and begin to grind into your vehicle's brake rotors which will further increase price of brake repair.
* Always clean your car's battery posts.
* Know that every different automobile has a different duration for the change of the car’s spark plugs. Read your vehicle’s manual to know about your car’s interval time. To make extra money, deceitful auto mechanics may suggest switching spark plugs after every 30,000 miles even if your car's spark plugs' life expectancy may be 100,000 miles.
* Check the pressure of your tires frequently. If your tyres are inflated to the right pressure, it saves fuel and also lengthens the tire longevity. On the other hand, lessening tyre air pressure means a leak that needs immediate repair.
* Regularly check your air filters. Filthy air filters reduce fuel economy and functioning. A high-pressure hose can be used to blow-out dirty air filters instead of getting new ones.
* Keep an eye on your engine oil. Check your engine oil regularly. Older automobiles may start to burn oil. Sometimes, cars can run dangerously low on engine oil and not show any warning of a leak.
To be realistic, many of us will never make efforts to learn how to work on our own cars. Most of the cars that came out within the last decade are run by a variety of electronic sensors and computers. The positive bit about this is that the auto industry is always making changes to improve fuel economy, lessen pollution, and provide optimum performance all by itself. On the other hand, vehicles need regular specialized training, and exorbitant testing equipments in order to flawlessly determine problems and repair cars.
Without this necessary training and contribution in specialized car tools, the DIY car owner, (and even smaller auto repair shops) has no other option but to “throw parts at cars” until the warning signs disappear. In some situations, auto shops replace a certain part, and later also suggest after the installation that another part too requires changing. If it was never mentioned in the beginning, this is an alarm bell that the mechanic isn’t accomplished enough to recognize the problem effectively. With a bad mechanic, you might have just replaced parts that were working perfectly well.
This is the main reason we state that the most crucial choice you make in getting your car fixed is which auto repair shop you take your car to. As many honest and skilled mechanics there are, also present are deceptive and dishonest mechanics too. We suggest you ask your friends and neighbors to recommend you a mechanic, else use a 3rd party service like AAA, the Better Business Bureau, or CompareAutoCare.com to provide you with information on shops in your local area, so that you have an idea of what you’re stepping into before you actually bring in your vehicle for service.
Wednesday, September 12, 2007
Build Your Own Car
If you have ever wanted to build your own car but think it isn't possible, then think again.
Thousands of people all over the world have done it and are now driving cars which are different from the run of the mill vehicles sold by the major manufacturers. Since before the war, folks have taken production cars and used them as donors for their own creation. The two donor vehicles that I remember were the Austin 7 and the Ford Popular. Often they were very basic constructions, taking the chassis, engine and gearbox, suspension and rear axle from the donor, then making a very light, usually aluminium body. Many clubs were formed to race and rally these cars. One of them, the 750 Motor Club is still going today.
In the early days it was much simpler as there were fewer restrictions in what the legal requirements were from the point of road worthiness. My own experience is from the UK where it is now a requirement to have any vehicle that is not a large scale production model to have what is called an SVA (Single Vehicle Approval) test. Fortunately this is not the same as the type approval that the major manufacturers require before they can sell their vehicles. No crash test is required!! It is however very strict with regard to the safety aspects of the car, both from the point of the driver and other road users.
What can you build? There are hundreds of choices depending on your budget, time and facilities.
If you want to build a sports car from scratch, there is the "Locost 7" which is a replica of the Lotus 7 originally designed by Colin Chapman. Ron Champion wrote a book called Build Your Own Sportscar for Less Than £250. I built one of these myself, although it took me three years and the budget was nearer to £2000!! To build a car like this you need to have various skills, such as the ability to weld and use metalworking power and hand tools. You also need patience and determination to finish the project. You also need a good sized workshop with room to move and plenty of storage space. The Locost is really a scratch built car as you make the chassis and fabricate most of the body panels, although there are several specialist suppliers from who you can buy the majority of the parts. If your budget is not a problem, there are many kit car manufacturers that will supply you with a kit, or part kit to build a Lotus 7 replica. Just a few are Caterham Cars, Robin Hood Engineering, Westfield and Tiger.
There are also replica kits available for many of the classic cars such as MG, Jaguar, Porche, the AC Cobra, Austin Healy, Ferrari ....... The list is virtually endless.
If you do decide to seriously want to build your own car, there are thousands of resources available which will help you. The steps I would take would be to go to your local newsagent and buy one or two kitcar magazines. Have a look at what vehicles are available and decide what models you like that are within you price range. Go to kitcar shows and look at the cars there. Talk to the owners/builders to find out how difficult it was to build their cars. Once you have decided which car you want, don't immediately buy it from the manufacturer. Check and see what is available, possibly part built or not even started. There are always ads in the magazines, sometimes in your local paper, on the web and of course Ebay. Often they are available at a greatly reduced price, either because the builder has given up or their circumstances have changed and can no longer continue with their project. Last but not least, join a club for the car that you are going to build. There is nothing like having the help and support of people who have done it before.
Thousands of people all over the world have done it and are now driving cars which are different from the run of the mill vehicles sold by the major manufacturers. Since before the war, folks have taken production cars and used them as donors for their own creation. The two donor vehicles that I remember were the Austin 7 and the Ford Popular. Often they were very basic constructions, taking the chassis, engine and gearbox, suspension and rear axle from the donor, then making a very light, usually aluminium body. Many clubs were formed to race and rally these cars. One of them, the 750 Motor Club is still going today.
In the early days it was much simpler as there were fewer restrictions in what the legal requirements were from the point of road worthiness. My own experience is from the UK where it is now a requirement to have any vehicle that is not a large scale production model to have what is called an SVA (Single Vehicle Approval) test. Fortunately this is not the same as the type approval that the major manufacturers require before they can sell their vehicles. No crash test is required!! It is however very strict with regard to the safety aspects of the car, both from the point of the driver and other road users.
What can you build? There are hundreds of choices depending on your budget, time and facilities.
If you want to build a sports car from scratch, there is the "Locost 7" which is a replica of the Lotus 7 originally designed by Colin Chapman. Ron Champion wrote a book called Build Your Own Sportscar for Less Than £250. I built one of these myself, although it took me three years and the budget was nearer to £2000!! To build a car like this you need to have various skills, such as the ability to weld and use metalworking power and hand tools. You also need patience and determination to finish the project. You also need a good sized workshop with room to move and plenty of storage space. The Locost is really a scratch built car as you make the chassis and fabricate most of the body panels, although there are several specialist suppliers from who you can buy the majority of the parts. If your budget is not a problem, there are many kit car manufacturers that will supply you with a kit, or part kit to build a Lotus 7 replica. Just a few are Caterham Cars, Robin Hood Engineering, Westfield and Tiger.
There are also replica kits available for many of the classic cars such as MG, Jaguar, Porche, the AC Cobra, Austin Healy, Ferrari ....... The list is virtually endless.
If you do decide to seriously want to build your own car, there are thousands of resources available which will help you. The steps I would take would be to go to your local newsagent and buy one or two kitcar magazines. Have a look at what vehicles are available and decide what models you like that are within you price range. Go to kitcar shows and look at the cars there. Talk to the owners/builders to find out how difficult it was to build their cars. Once you have decided which car you want, don't immediately buy it from the manufacturer. Check and see what is available, possibly part built or not even started. There are always ads in the magazines, sometimes in your local paper, on the web and of course Ebay. Often they are available at a greatly reduced price, either because the builder has given up or their circumstances have changed and can no longer continue with their project. Last but not least, join a club for the car that you are going to build. There is nothing like having the help and support of people who have done it before.
Monday, September 10, 2007
Demystifying The Myths Of Cold Air Intakes
I recently put of few thousand miles on my car driving across the country. So I went over to the local Jiffy Lube to get my oil changed. The mechanic tried sell me a new air filter, but I chose to hold off. They weren’t giving me a great deal, so I figured I would at least check out a few performance air filters if I was going to be spending the money anyway. I started doing some research and discovered that there are two types of aftermarket intakes that people like: either short rams or cold air intakes.
The two names pretty much are self explanatory. The short ram intake has a shorter pipe. The cold air intake has a longer pipe that allows the intake to breathe in cooler air because it is further from the engine. Sounds logical enough, but then I my inquisitive mind got the best of me. I’m a little unclear about the abilities of cold air intakes. If you have ever popped your hood after a long drive, you know that everything under the hood is scorching hot. Would it really matter if the intake head was a foot further from the engine? Moving the intake is like putting a pan in the oven; it is going to be hot no matter where it is because it is in a confined area with limited air flow.
Secondly, cold air intakes have longer pipes, which mean that air has to travel a longer distance to reach the engine. I’m not a car expert, but I do know the general principle behind turbo engines and increasing horsepower. Horsepower is derived from an equation where the major factors are the amount of air flow to the engine and the density of that air. If a cold air intake is longer and is bent in order to reach a different part of the engine bay, then it will take air longer to reach the engine. Also, the bends in the cold air’s pipe prohibits maximum air flow; a short straight pipe would be ideal. Now even though the short ram intake is breathing warmer air because of its location, it will simply start sucking in cooler air as your car accelerates. Sure, it may not give you as much horsepower when you are at a stop sign, but then again, who cares?
The weather should also be taken into account. If you live in Florida and it’s 94 degrees out, it doesn’t matter where your intake is; you’re not going to be getting cold air. And even if you are in premium driving conditions, how much cooler would the air be that is a foot away? Would you really miss or even be able to feel if you had 1 Hp less? I could see if you are Vin Diesel in the Fast and the Furious, racing for pink slips, then you might want to get the most out of your car. But until that day, I think regular air filters and short ram air filters are better than cold air intakes because they are cheaper.
The two names pretty much are self explanatory. The short ram intake has a shorter pipe. The cold air intake has a longer pipe that allows the intake to breathe in cooler air because it is further from the engine. Sounds logical enough, but then I my inquisitive mind got the best of me. I’m a little unclear about the abilities of cold air intakes. If you have ever popped your hood after a long drive, you know that everything under the hood is scorching hot. Would it really matter if the intake head was a foot further from the engine? Moving the intake is like putting a pan in the oven; it is going to be hot no matter where it is because it is in a confined area with limited air flow.
Secondly, cold air intakes have longer pipes, which mean that air has to travel a longer distance to reach the engine. I’m not a car expert, but I do know the general principle behind turbo engines and increasing horsepower. Horsepower is derived from an equation where the major factors are the amount of air flow to the engine and the density of that air. If a cold air intake is longer and is bent in order to reach a different part of the engine bay, then it will take air longer to reach the engine. Also, the bends in the cold air’s pipe prohibits maximum air flow; a short straight pipe would be ideal. Now even though the short ram intake is breathing warmer air because of its location, it will simply start sucking in cooler air as your car accelerates. Sure, it may not give you as much horsepower when you are at a stop sign, but then again, who cares?
The weather should also be taken into account. If you live in Florida and it’s 94 degrees out, it doesn’t matter where your intake is; you’re not going to be getting cold air. And even if you are in premium driving conditions, how much cooler would the air be that is a foot away? Would you really miss or even be able to feel if you had 1 Hp less? I could see if you are Vin Diesel in the Fast and the Furious, racing for pink slips, then you might want to get the most out of your car. But until that day, I think regular air filters and short ram air filters are better than cold air intakes because they are cheaper.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)